View Full Version : Making a Side-mounted force feed hopper.

April 28th, 2012, 06:41 PM
So further to my questions in the technical section about if a Halo Too could "force-feed" Up, there's some proof out there it could actually work, and in my opinion, would both look cool, as well as be practical.

So, Here's a reference of my conversion, specifically, to Side-Mount a Halo Too onto a Gog G1.

This all started even before I had really gone and played a game, but purely based on the fact I didn't like having my sight obstructed. So, mistekenly bought and sold an X7, and decided the Gog G1 was a good idea, because it can allow left or right feeds. Well, thats not entirely 100% true.. it's an angled feed, from on top, into the gun from either, left, top, or right hand side. It's still at a 45' angle.

So, after asking the question, and Halo finding me a few threads and Pics.. I started.

The Build
First, had to make a bracket that would attach to the picatinny rail on the gun. I decided the rear, side mount rails would be perfect, and make for a clean, removable attachement. Got some aluminium bar out my garage, and fabricated a slide on bracket.




At this point, while trying holding the Hopper on the left hand side, I realised, because most of my wrist is there, and would be in the way, to move the entire installation to the right hand side of the gun. Found some counter sunk screws, washers, spacers etc, and drilled some holes. Bolted the screws up tight.



Aligned the hopper at a slight upward tilt in the front, to aid balls getting down to the feeder, and drilled some holes. Checked clearance and everything was good, then opened the Hopper, and bolted it up inside.

Looking good. Good clearance, and top view still very clear.

Once bolted up tight, it pulled the Hopper out and straightened it up, giving ample space for your hand\thumb..



So, that's the progress so far. Next will be to cut and modify the Rotor feed so it comes up through the Hopper, out the top of the hopper, and into the gun on the right hand side.I'll look for a 45' elbow and see if I get get it as neat as possible.

April 28th, 2012, 08:25 PM
dude thats pretty epic

April 28th, 2012, 09:03 PM
*watches with much anticipation*

April 28th, 2012, 10:16 PM
Well you're not messing around ...
Hope your industrious attempt is rewarded with success.

April 28th, 2012, 10:16 PM
Thanks guys,
So, decided to forge forward, as they say in English, and went at the Hopper.. I mean, how hard can it be right..:22::02:
Ok not so bad actually.. Here's the Bracket from the inside.. Strengthened up and strong for sure..


Now, decided to cut the Rotor feed. Needed this to be as close as possible to the rotor blades etc, so there wasn't too much of a drop for the balls. But it got a little messy..


That piece where it's side-connected to the section next to the motor, I cut into there with the bandsaw, and promptly cut the frikkin rubber band that is in the "gearbox.. :23:So, took a chance with some superglue, and it's stuck.. Back together, and carried on. Checked the path through the inner cavity the pipe would take, it pretty much when right through the middle of everything, the rotor compartment, the battery compartment, and the ball compartment..



Then, got the flexible pipe as much bent into shape as I could get it without pinching the pipe diameter. Then got the old gluegun out, and glued the pipe, now cut at an angle, into the Blue "exit from the rotor.

Then managed to get it all up and through the hopper, closed it up, and opened it about 5 times to get it as best a fit as I could.. The Battery compartment wouldn't close, or the batteries pressed against the pipe.. urgh.. Eventually, it was closed up and all seems clear, and still working.

more next post.

April 28th, 2012, 10:25 PM
Finally managed to get it all closed, and in my opinion, looks much better.


Used a basic piece of rubber to join the flexi hose to the top of the feed on the gun.. Side profile, with my own suppressor looks quite cool. Much lower profile..


View from the rear. Pretty clean..


Doesn't sit that much higher, and the Pipe feed isn't too much of a distraction.


Inside, you can see more or less the cuts made through the middle compartment. Not too bad, and still keeps the balls up in the top. I'll probably try and seal this up with Silicone or something so that dust etc doesn't fall down into the rotor from the refills etc..


So, there you have it.. A side-mounted forcefeed Halo Too.. Poured in about 30 to 40 rubber practice balls, and switch the gun into full auto into the pillows and towel. mmm, approx 5 to 6 seconds done, except for about 3 or 4 still in the pipe. Thats ok because when the next refill happens, those few will simply get forced through.. Works great.. So, will see how it performs soon.

Hope you enjoyed the 8 hour build and walk through. :32:


April 28th, 2012, 10:29 PM
Having looked at this some more, I made a stuff up.. If I cut the top exit hole closer to the entry of the gun, ie: not through the middle, I can then exit the hopper at a tight angle, and use the 45' elbow, so gonna go change that quick.


April 28th, 2012, 10:34 PM
Holy cow! Bring that beast to Area 51 tomorrow.

You may down the line want to put a offset Red Dot site on the left or top rail to balance her weight distribution a little.

April 28th, 2012, 11:29 PM
Hey Longball,

thanks for the compliments.. I'm riding through on my Bike tomorrow, so not going to try pack kit yet.. That's the next challenge.. Hopefully my outstanding order from JHB arrives soon, like Monday, ( 3 to 5 days my ass!!) :30: So, then I can finish off the gun with some rail shrouds etc, and I'll have my clothing I ordered.. Soon the most prepared NOOB on the planet is going to make his name gat I'm sure :05:.. But I hope to enjoy it when I do.. :17:



April 29th, 2012, 08:29 AM
Very well done ! Where there's a will (and tools) there's a way ...
Looks quite good

The only thing I don't "like" is the gap between marker and loader.

April 29th, 2012, 08:30 AM
Very well done ! Where there's a will (and tools) there's a way ...
Looks quite good

The only thing I don't "like" is the gap between marker and loader.

April 29th, 2012, 08:50 AM
Just need to paint that pipe black to match :D Looks awesome man, really god job!

April 29th, 2012, 09:20 AM
@ Neil,

you need the gap to make space for your hand on the gun's grip. @Reverthex, done.. ;-)

Here's a small Video of it shooting.



April 29th, 2012, 09:38 AM
Taped up the White tube, and fitted the 45' elbow onto the gun. Looks cool now. Also blackened out the front and rear of my Suppressor. Think it looks cool, and is at least 20% quieter than standard.


Here you can see where I DID make a bigger cut in the top of the hopper thinlking I could get the pipe out the hopper closer to the gun, and therefore reduce the top profile, but you can't, the entry into the gun is what it is. I would only gate that flatter if I actually modified the gun, which I don't think is worth it for now. Anyway, had to glue back on some black plastic.. Thats what you can see under the pipe exit.



Neil, here you can see why the Gap is needed. it's not too wide that it causes issues, but gives my hand freedom to move.


Here, the top profile can be seen.


So, thats that. Hope it stays "ok", doesn't jam, or break paint etc. time will tell I guess.


April 29th, 2012, 09:44 AM
Your next issue will be using the stock (and optics) with a mask on LOL

Buy a RAP4 skeleton stock for a Tippmann 98, go buy pipes of the same diameter, bend them, remove the std ones and put your custom ones in, problem solved

Just need a butter knife to remove std stock from the adaptor

Easy as Pie

April 29th, 2012, 01:45 PM
Neil, you're a really positive guy most of the time aren't you.. :23:


April 29th, 2012, 01:54 PM
LOL , I'm 100% pessimist

seriously, its gonna get in your way, my stock is on order, should get it in the next 2 weeks

April 29th, 2012, 02:05 PM
When I first saw it I thought oo...kaaaay, its kinda nice
Then I looked at it again and thought, well done

The more I look at it the more I like it for certain game styles. Its definately much better than a Qloader ! (I had 1)

I've probably looked at your post 10 times already and every time I like it more
At 1 stage I thought it should be on the front side rail, then realised it would get in the way, its better at the back

But, u need to GO PLAY paintball a bit, don't wait for this and that, put it in a backpack and go play

How solid is it ?
Meaning, won't it break out easily on the hopper side

I'm over analysing again

the crusader
April 29th, 2012, 06:53 PM
bravo i shall take an attempt at this now seeing as i am irratable with the whole hopper ontop idea

April 29th, 2012, 07:08 PM
If you decide it's too side heavy you've already done the hard work re-routing the pipe up the top, it would be easy to make into a box mag feed :)

April 29th, 2012, 07:34 PM
Out of curiosity, why didn't you just install a rip clip?
Was it based on peripheral visibility for you as a lefty?

Also, from a safety point of view, be sure to keep your barrel sock/plug on at all times.
If paint remains in your bends and you assume they won't come out due to "low ammo", you don't want to be the cause of an incident if you accidentally drop your guard in the safe zone. I suppose with the elevation of the bends, you'll have to 'decant' any paint left before degassing.

Lastly. The 45deg elbow... Is that the same one everyone uses to pop gravity fed hoppers onto their milsims? It would be epic if you could get that 45 modified to feed straight into the chamber, thus alleviating the top bend of your feed. Perhaps join 2 45's and play around with that idea?
Just a thought. May or may not work

April 29th, 2012, 07:40 PM
Oookay, this is definitely something I am going to experiment with, since an LMG just looks more like an LMG with a box mag underneath, as opposed to a hopper on top.

Stocks, optics, and masks... yeah, that's a tricky one. What I've seen before is people taking the G36 stock (or a similar one) and taking the top strut off, leaving this open L-shaped stock. Neil's bending idea is a good one as well.

But yeah. Has that hopper seen any actual paint, and have there been any issues yet?

@Neil - never underestimate the value of overanalysis. Someone overanalysing something I've been busy with has saved me embarrasments on several occasions.

April 29th, 2012, 07:57 PM
Brittle paint will be your worst enemy in a setup like this.
Perhaps also consider a quick release on your elbow in case you need to get in there quickly?

Also, perhaps you could investigate "extending" your hopper,ie raising the top half of the shell to compensate for lost volume. If it was a 200 round hopper, how many can you get in there with this mod as it is now? Food for thought if you're planning on playing big games with big load outs. (ie no paint limitations).

Also, how comfortable is this current setup for right handed players?

April 29th, 2012, 08:57 PM
All the questions...

Reverthex, it certainly no heavier than a stock G1 I'm sure of it.. If anything, the added weight is lower, ie: lower COG. less topple effect. No need to counter balance it at all.

Tracker, I built it because I wanted a lower then anything on the market feeder. Plus I wanted to modify this stuff and make it personal. Even if paint is left in the tube, it can stay there until the next game, or it can simply be rolled out by inverting the gun and rolling the hopper backward. The top elbow came with the gun.

Mugs, I've shot about 40 or 50 balls of paint through it now. (Didn't you watch the video?) as well as a good couple of rubber test rounds, while I was setting the Hoppers feed speed and mike settings. All seems fine so far. But you know what, if crap happens, at least I tried. No sweat to just go buy another Halo and leave it stock.

Tracker, The paint I've been shooting here at home testing this, is at least 2 months old. it's going hard.. Hasn't broken in the device, and doesn't jam. But never say never. Maybe FRESH paint will break as soon as I try it.

I don't see whay it couldn't be used by a left or right handed person. In fact, it could go on either side of the gun really. Volume lost inside because of a small piece of pipe, was actually gained by being able to have more paint IN the pipe, as well as in the hopper. It's done, it works ok, who knows how robust it'll be, but so what. I enjoyed screwing around with it.. Bargain if it works.. If not, big deal.
If any other guys get ideas to do their own mods after seeing this, cool, at least it motivated a few.



April 29th, 2012, 09:30 PM
Dye/ignite crack on a 3ft drop test.
Three2/marbellizer will be a little more resilient.

Wasn't knocking your efforts, just commenting on how you could possibly adjust for better results and efficiency, as well as for other guys/girls wanting to try this for themselves.

From a right/left point of view, I reckon the hopper on the right will always work better unless the marker has a top loading feed neck, based on the fact that most chambers are on the right on milsim markers. Hence the question. If you extend your mounting bolts slightly, right handers could possibly benefit from such a mod ;)

April 29th, 2012, 10:50 PM
For what its worth, I think the effort is awesome, and you have probably opened the minds of a few other players, who are looking to mod their markers.

Good job, and I hope she serves you well in the up coming months, until you decide to upgrade again! LOL.

I take my hat off to someone who takes the time and effort to mod a marker to what works for them, as the risk involved is pretty great. You have done a a really good job, and I think it looks very good.

Now, bring it to a field, and lets see it in action!

April 29th, 2012, 11:30 PM
maybe instead of messing around with a stock just take it off and put a 20oz onto the marker and use that as a stock as it wont get in the way and it works nicely

April 30th, 2012, 02:39 AM
Don't think or feel that anyone is saying you shouldn't have or bad job

We all think its pretty awesome!

Just voicing opinions and concerns, positive criticism ...

April 30th, 2012, 07:59 AM

Tracker, I agree, because most guns are right neck feed, it makes sense that the hopper "should" be on the right hand side, to reduce the length of the pipe as much as possible. Even if I hold the gun with my right hand, there's still clearance between the hopper and my hand on the grip, so it should be fine for left or right handed people.

Agreed tho, with a Mask on you don't actually get close to that top rail to sight, but possibly might get there with a higher rail sight, or a handle rail like the M5 etc. In general though, it's nice to be able to scan left to right over the top of the gun and see clearly with a little pipe obstruction.

If I were to modify it further, I'll probably make new Aluminium brackets which have longer "legs" that go around the Picatinny rails. These are a little short and I think could get ripped off the rail.

James, I've invested in a Vest with the Tank on the back, and a remote coil. Need the gun to be light, and remain light. Those Halo's are quite bulky, and did add to the weight, but at least it's not all top mounted weight. Anything low on any device service to reduce the COG. That's always a good thing.

No worries on the positives or negatives, I really don't mind having people judge something they haven't done themselves. It's justified. But as far as forum material goes, at least this thread will offer other possible future modifyers the chance to see exactly what I did.

If I was going to build one again, would I change any part of the actual fabrication? Probably the brackets, and making them longer, otherwise, that hopper conversion is good, and it feeds perfectly. If I get some broken paint, then I'll only be able to see\work out why then. This orange stuff I have here hasn't broken so far.

Hopefully this Sunday I'll find a game somewhere. Clothes etc should be here, so I'll keep my eyes and ears open.


April 30th, 2012, 08:14 AM
Holy cow! Just re-read, and edited all the posts again. Apologies for the absolute horrendous spelling and typo's. :43:
Should read properly now. I was rushing to get those posts up through the evening, and was clearly knackered. :05:


April 30th, 2012, 08:18 AM
Your next issue will be using the stock (and optics) with a mask on LOL

Buy a RAP4 skeleton stock for a Tippmann 98, go buy pipes of the same diameter, bend them, remove the std ones and put your custom ones in, problem solved

Just need a butter knife to remove std stock from the adaptor

Easy as Pie

Hi Neil,

I now understand what you were referencing here. Have you seen this, or got any Pics of it?


April 30th, 2012, 08:29 AM
I have 1 yes, but for a A5, waiting for my 98 version

Will look for it tonight and post a pic

Here is the unmodified version

April 30th, 2012, 08:53 AM
Ok, I get you..
So essentially, the top arm needs to be removed, and or a second arm mounted ower for strength. Got you. Does this also fit on the Gog? Or do you have to Mod the rear end to make it fit? Have you done it yet?
Will look into it as a future mod. thanks.


April 30th, 2012, 10:04 AM
Any stock that will fit a 98 custom or a BT Combat will fit in to the G1 stock adaptor except the MP5/UMP sliding stock.

Stunning build and it sort of helps as I've been planning a box mod for a while but never found a decent how to... (Also been struggling to find a decent box...)

if you want some other ideas on what custom stuff can be done with a G1/SP1/Vibe/eNVy/eXTCy a little love and attention search for the Show and Tell Custom Only thread.

Glad to see there are some more guys getting in to customising their gear. :12:

April 30th, 2012, 12:42 PM
Yep, Parcel arrived from JHB. Got some Clothing, and some Gun bits..

These are cap shrouds, changes the appearance of the gun. Thanks to the G1's multiple rails everywhere. Also bought two flip\down front and rear sights, and a harness clamp for the front of the gun, which is on the bottom, just in front of the foregrip.

Also taken off the Stock for now.. Can get behid the sight much better, but will look at an alternative as Neil pointed out.






Also have some rail covers, but they are for the thinner Picitinny Rails, don't fit this gun. eg: BT's and Tipmanns. Will put an Add in the for sale section.



April 30th, 2012, 01:01 PM
Looking better and better ... I can see your are really enjoying this project.

I wouldn't worry about a stock (unless you really want a specific look) as a direct on tank pretty much does the job anyway.

I'd recommend you get a 16oz Co2 (for a shorter "stock") or a GUERRILA HPA tank as they come in various sizes to suite your body dimensions.

Now please go and shoot someone at a field near you ... so you can be baptized by fire before D-Day in a months time.
No excuses, you can't put this amount of work into a marker and not go to one of the biggest events on the calendar.
Just make sure everything is working properly and you have a spare gravity feed hopper (just in case).

April 30th, 2012, 01:36 PM
@ Longball, thanks man.

Am keen to visit a field this Sunday. (It's my weekend off) :32: And I basically have like everything I need for now. So, who suggests where?

I have a Brand new 20 Oz tank on my back for this with a remote coil, so that should be fine no?

I would still like to fit on a stock, as Neil pointed out, so am going to try find something which can fit on this? Lemme go read up what Neil said.



April 30th, 2012, 01:49 PM
Hey Alan

You're an older player ... so I suggest you go to a field like Area 51 where i know quiet a few mature players (I'm 37) frequent regularly.
I think U-Tac also has an older posse depending on whats going on.

Anyway if you can't hook up with anyone properly just go play at your nearest field and get shot up a bit by whoever.
You can start making some friends at D-Day as the grey beards will definitely be in attendance in significant numbers.

P.s. I classify older as 35 plus years. 34 is just a magical happy place :D

April 30th, 2012, 04:15 PM
Looked around the Internet for a while on this stock story.. Decided as mine in it's current form get's in the way, that I might as well modify mine.. So, did a little test fitting with the Mask on, worked out at full extension, I'd get away with it by cutting down the rear sliding stock some.

Here is the modified Stock, closed.


And extended.


In this form, with mask on, I can get my left eye behind the sight perfectly. Will I use it, possibly, (It's actually damn accurate through the sights when shooting.. :36:

So, I "think" I'm done with the gun now..

Here's the Gear.. My Mask, an Invert Helix, like, Olive Green, so I did my own slight camo sprayjob. just enough to colour it up a bit.

The Tactical Vest. On here is a 20 oz Tank fitted up high acorss my sholder blades, and below, a Camo 2 + 3 or whatever it is.


German Camo Top and Pants arrived. Perfect fit, amazing considering it was an Internet Purchase. Looks the part.


So I'm done. Got the gear, hopefully it all works ok, so lets play. :34:


April 30th, 2012, 04:28 PM
So does all that cool German camo mean you're going to play D-Day with us on the Axis side?

April 30th, 2012, 04:57 PM
I've just gone and read up on D-Day.. Fark me what DrGreenthumb says, but hey, I'd be glad to offer a left hand flanker or defender\sniper service if anyone needs it.. :43: Seriously, it all sounds like fun, but I don't understand all this talk.. At least I have a month beofre this to get my stuff into action, so to speak.:12:


May 1st, 2012, 12:55 AM
Alan what do you need help with understanding?

D-Day is an in-memorium event. It honours a lot of lives lost on both sides of a very destructive conflict...

Generally the spirit and atmosphere for this event is unique due to the significance.

DeathWatch team ruling is to play axis for no other reason than it's the side that will lose this event. Our purpose then just becomes to send as many allieds to respawn as often as possible.

Like last year DW will be at the Airfield which holds flag 1 (the 1st flag that must be taken.) This year no quarter will be given and the allieds will have to fight for every cm of fox hole they want to take.

May 1st, 2012, 01:07 AM
Now, what would happen if your defense happened to be just that little bit too hectic this year?
Perhaps another surprise.... like Tippy Challenge?
What if the Allied forces couldn't break the defensive line this year?

May 1st, 2012, 01:17 AM
That would be an unusual upset.

Since I'm on Axis, it's what I'm going for, personally.

May 1st, 2012, 08:36 AM
Hey Snowwolf,

Sorry man, but having NEVER been any form of a paintball war before, I have no idea of what happens, or what is expected. Except to shoot the bad dudes. I understand the importance of this event, and what happened in History. I also understand the overall concept in paintballing is to try and get a flag, (I think). But thats it.
So, I think I am ready, willing and able to do something somewhere, as long as someone gives me some basic instructions.. get it. Oh, and it must be left side orientated for obvious reasons.. :32: (In Tennis, a strong doubles team is usually made up of a left and right handed player, with their dtrongest strokes on the tramlines.) I'm sure the same concept would apply in this sport.

Due to my Uniform already bearing "colours, I feel I have to play "axis". Whatever it is, it sounds important, and I like your sense of urgency.

Can I shoot now?


May 1st, 2012, 11:18 AM
Hey Alan

Here's the history lesson http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normandy_landings.

D-Day is basically a massive attack and defend scenario (my favourite).
If you play the Germans (Axis) we will be bunkerd down and will defend against charging Allied troops who have very little cover.
It will initially be a turkey shoot for the Axis troops but as time goes by the Allies will be able to respawn (re-enter) the game faster than the Axis troops which will make defending very difficult indeed.

Axis generally use more ammo defending than the Allies so remember to carry as much as legally possible.

There is a second and third faze to D-Day which involves the Axis side getting pushed back further and further into our defenses lines until it gets down to something like this ... TiPX players may indeed have the edge :32:


"Disclaimer" never take off your Mask when on the field of play,
safety first as we don't really want to hurt each other.

May 1st, 2012, 11:28 AM
Thanks Longball, I did in fact go look it all up.. :04:
I'll bunker down and drop them like flies. Something makes me think I should never have sold my Tipx..



Zambezi Grog
May 1st, 2012, 11:50 AM
Alan great mod on your Halo too and Gog, it is nice to see the creative thinking the skill and ability to pull it off as the final result looks classy.

The D Day event looks epic and it is one I wish to attend one day when circumstances allow, but having played a few other big games and scenarios I suggest you get out and play some smaller and local games at your nearest field before the big game/scenario so that you get used to your gear and understand your playing style or else you might find it a little overwhelming and end up not enjoying the experience.

May 1st, 2012, 12:07 PM
Alan as long as you have a marker, mask, hopper, tank and paint you free to play :-D

May 1st, 2012, 12:27 PM
One of the biggest things new players need to get used to is the process of getting hits, recognizing hits and calling hits ...
A lot of noobs are in "Invulnerability Mode" as they don't recognize what's happening to or around them. This can upset some players.

Also its vital you go and check out how reliable your cool mods are.
You never know what could start to go wrong after 1000 plus shots have run through that system.
It's worth thinking about how exactly you're going to clean your loader as quickly as possible if paint breaks inside it.
As mentioned earlier, have a backup as you've used glue in your mod which there is no quick fix for if things go wrong.

Happy Chewy
May 1st, 2012, 01:11 PM
Any stock that will fit a 98 custom or a BT Combat will fit in to the G1 stock adaptor except the MP5/UMP sliding stock

I don't know if it is the same as the sp-1 stock adapter that was sold a few years ago but opsgear stock did NOT fit without modification, trust me. I had to modify mine to fit.

May 1st, 2012, 01:12 PM
as you've used glue in your mod which there is no quick fix for if things go wrong.

Never, I repeat, NEVER, underestimate the power of Duct Tape!

Zambezi Grog
May 1st, 2012, 01:32 PM
One of the biggest things new players need to get used to is the process of getting hits, recognizing hits and calling hits ...
A lot of noobs are in "Invulnerability Mode" as they don't recognize what's happening to or around them. This can upset some players.

Also its vital you go and check out how reliable your cool mods are.
You never know what could start to go wrong after 1000 plus shots have run through that system.
It's worth thinking about how exactly you're going to clean your loader as quickly as possible if paint breaks inside it.
As mentioned earlier, have a backup as you've used glue in your mod which there is no quick fix for if things go wrong.

That is exactly what I was trying to get at! thanks LB.

Yeah and Sub you can fix a broken arm with two barrels and Duct tape.

May 1st, 2012, 06:16 PM
Here's the pic

May 1st, 2012, 06:23 PM
Thanks Neil,

Longball, no glue inside anything mate. It's 100% repairable, "should" something go wrong. "Except the Hopper's Power Band" but that couldbreak for anyone with a Hopper, and it would stay broke, it's not field fixable.

I have a backup, and it'll work 100% as it's very "stock". Just needs to be chrono'd, and with a Gravity Hopper, it'll be "old faithful".

I have no issues getting shot, I have all the gear, and am fully prepared should it occur, it's "part of the territory" so to speak.. But I'd like to think I can give as good as I get..

Will hopefully battle test the gear this month at a few places, and see how it goes.


May 1st, 2012, 06:52 PM
Cool Alan, looks like you have some redundancies in place.
Hope the mods reward your ingenuity and hard work by operating as intended.
By the way changing your hopper does not really effect your chrono but a barrel change can.

As for being shot, what I mean is how to handle to process of being shot out of a game without getting shot way more than you need to be.
It takes a bit of practice feeling hits, than checking its actually a break and then calling your self out in a way that's clear to the enemy so he does not overshoot or bonus ball you to hell.

None of us paintballer's mind getting shot but being lit up for no good reason or not calling hits does not go down well with anyone in the community.

May 6th, 2012, 08:51 PM
Feeling a little beat up today. Had my first Paintball initiation games at U-Tac, Good to finally meet you SnoWolf79, Reverthex, nice chatting and having a good game or three. I'm afraid Division SRU gave you Opfor guys a severe hiding today.. :01: But it was awesome nonetheless..
The Hopper Mod caused some disturbance there today.. Plenty Internested people asking about it, how it works etc. Well, about 1000 balls later, and I am happy to announ e it was pretty flawless the entire day. My gun gave more crap than the Hopper dide, strangely deciding to not fire now and then. One of the Deltaforce guys thought I had perhaps had a Barrelbreak, I wasn't too sure, but anyway.

The Hopper kept feeding no problems.. Just the Gun having an issue now and then. We both took a lot of hits today, but we also gave a few. All in all, extremely satisfying, but goddamn how unfit am I, eventually literally walking to enemy fire.. :32:

So need to either duplicate this, or use this on the BT 4 as backup. And convert to air soon. But otherwise, a good, workable alternative to the on-top hopper.



May 6th, 2012, 10:20 PM
Glad to hear the mod worked.
Nice one.

As for fitness, well that is different for all players.
Some guys move like the wind, and others simply break wind, then move.

As long as you're having fun, that's the most important thing in paintball.

May 6th, 2012, 10:25 PM
Some guys move like the wind, and others simply break wind, then move.

LOL ... I'd rather break wind than an ankle or knee.
Ones dexterity certainly goes to a ball of **** over time.

Your sprightly types are the assaulter's while the slower players cover and coordinate.
Oh ... if life could be so simple!

May 6th, 2012, 10:30 PM
Let me tell you, I am feeling it!
When I blew my knee out in 2005, I knew I was probably not as young as I thought I was... now I am certain of it.

The knee still gives me hassles!

May 6th, 2012, 10:30 PM
This looks like a really neat peice of work. Thumbs up alanp! There is a mod that is similar to this in that it reduces your marker profile drasticaly using the cyclone feed. It was thought through by a guy who went by the name of Paint-Borg on youtube. I would not say that this mod would work for a heavy gunner but if you work spareingly with your paint it is perfect. The profile of the marker is lower than a tac cap but can hold over 100 rounds. Search on you tube for paintborg or borgtech, both searches will get you to his channel. Once there check out the BULP loader. He has some really brilliant mods that are very cost effective and easy to make. He also has some awesome pb game videos. This guy was brilliant at the game, knew exactly what he was doing. Sadly he took his own life last year, how ever the channel has been kept running by a group of people and you can post anything paintball related there. I am planning on doing the BULP mod and will post a few pics once it is done. But check out his vid it gives a step by step on how to make it. Even if you dont plan on modding your cyclone check the channel out, it is worth it.

May 6th, 2012, 10:31 PM
This mod is alot sturdier than the pictures show. Alan you should have just asked me to take a look at your marker to see why it was misbehaving, I have happily serviced it for you quickly but it sounds like a battery issue more than anything else.

May 6th, 2012, 11:33 PM
Alan, your marker is very similar to my eXTCy. What lube are you using. I've had some issues that seem to be down to lube. The hater sauce was too thick.

the Jackal
May 7th, 2012, 06:19 AM
the marker looks,shoots and sound great,was
quite impressed yesterday

May 7th, 2012, 10:47 AM
Hey Sub, thanks, And Longball, damn right, 'spritely" is a great word. I ended up providing a lot of cover fire for the "kids".. But I also get frustrated with the lack of progress in attac, and often ended up getting it handed to me because I was up at the front.. Paint doesn't taste so good, and my neck and head are pretty eina today.. :29:

I stripped and cleaned the gun last night, No ball break inside.. So releaved to know the Hopper Mod isn't over feeding\forcing\breaking into the gun.
The Battery's new, and strong, can't be that..
I guess the internals do need some lube etc, and will "settle in", so not going to worry too much now, as I now need to "mod up" the Combat with a similar Hopper system.. Going to try use this Hopper for both guns, should be an interesting challenge on the mounting side.

Jackal, sorry to NOT have chatted yesterday, or introduced myself.. I met plenty people yesterday, so sorry dude.. But thanks for the comments.

I'm going to "entertain" an Apex conversion, or a Home made version at least, or a barrell or two. And probably Air conversion.. MORE MONEY... :10:


May 7th, 2012, 11:09 AM
Reason I say battery is that it's the problem 90% of the time. I was test firing my marker with a fresh 9v and it was working fine, game started and the marker refused to fire, swapped the battery out for a new rechargable and it worked again perfectly. But your marker is new so it hasn't been broken in yet and lube plays a factor too but I've never seen a marker refuse to fire because of lube.

July 16th, 2012, 08:50 PM
it's been like, 2 months since I started in this hobby.. This specific Mod on the G1, the very first side mount I built, if you remember, was from a 2nd hand Halp already, sounded a little rough in compasrison to the new one I bought after the fact.. Then I went and cut the rubber band when I was converting this one..

Sooo, went and tested the G1 tonight, as I usually do.. Havn't played for a while, so usually take the G1 off the hook and check all works, runs etc.. Switch on the Hopper, and I hear the "wrrr" sound, but the paddle wheel doesn't move.. Stick my hand inside and spin the paddle wheel freely.. no drive, no contact with the motor.. FARK!!!!

So, rip it off, split it, pull out the motor and tray, and remove the bottom, and the rubber band's broken again.. However, as I'm also stripping it out the painted black hopper, I pull the board out at a bad angle, and proceed to break the small press button on the curcuit board.. stuffed.

So, had to remove the backup new hopper of the Barrett Sniper and Cannibalise it to get it's smoother running motor and new rubber band. Anyhow. All good, G1's ready for war, in 2 weeks time.. But the Barrett's got now SPeed Feed, and I'm not going to buy another one. will use a small 50 feed hopper on the Sniper if I ever do use it.

But, while I was in the Halo, I was messing round with the motor etc.. I guarantee I could put in a motor that would allow a Halo to feed 50 or 60 balls per second.. No problem.. I know it would be of any use, but that mechanism will handle higher speed motors easily.. "Turbo Halo" springs to mind..


July 19th, 2012, 08:37 AM
Well, if you could get a Halo to out-feed the Rotor and Prophecy, without compromising the battery life, then I think you will be onto a good thing.

July 19th, 2012, 09:19 AM
The small press button on the PCB is broken? How handy are you with a soldering iron?

July 19th, 2012, 10:07 AM
@ Mugs, VERY handy, but got a little "over-excited" with it. Tried to glue back the plastic knob, which then glued down the actual press-plate, it got very ugly after that. I almost reached for a hammer. :28:
Could easily re-solder a new push-button no problem, but considering the drive belt snapped, and so on, it's cool, this is on a box as "spares' should I need them. Not going to try and ressurrect this Halo.

@Sub, while I was attacking the push button with a blade, I managed to short out the circuit somehow, which put the Motor into "flat out speed", and it's certainly got some serious rpm's. Mechanically, I think that would simply break very soft balls in the hopper, thats what makes that Rotor so clevere, with the opposite turning arm, it helps to avoid any balls jamming in the feed tube. They def thought outside the box with the rotor. But, I like the Halo, it's good enough for me and my modifications.


the crusader
July 19th, 2012, 10:48 AM
So if i may ask Alan would you recommend a Halo 2 to anyone . And what have you thought of the battery life so far as i would like to get one

July 19th, 2012, 11:02 AM
Well, if you could get a Halo to out-feed the Rotor and Prophecy, without compromising the battery life, then I think you will be onto a good thing.

Putting in a more powerful motor will almost certainly drain the batteries faster, since either the voltage or the current must increase to produce more power.

In something like the Rotor one could increase the feed rate by replacing the secondary drive gears to ones with more teeth i.e. same motor rotations result in more feed cycles without affecting the consumed battery power.

Can't make out enough from the scarce diagrams of the Halo internals to tell exactly how the motor rotations are translated into feed cycles.

alan, does the Halo use a multi-gear drive approach too? Or is it belt-driven? If its "direct-drive" off the motor, your approach might be the only way to boost the feedrate though.

July 19th, 2012, 11:06 AM
Spares are good. And if that one keeps on snapping drivebelts...

Probably a fault on the PCB anyway - pushing too much juice to the motor or something...

July 19th, 2012, 11:24 AM
@ Crusader,

Considering our fields limit us to 10 BPS, a Halo is then AMPLE good for the required feed, vs cost factor. The downsides are:

The plastic it's made from is too brittle. So after a few months, and a few knocks, it cracks easily.
Feedneck is therefore a weak point.
it requires 7 screws to be removed to get into it. The Battery compartment NUT falls out easily, and can get lost.
The Motor runs a belt around a plastic drive, which in turn engages with a bigger dis via a gear, and the Rotor is screwd directly onto that Disc. So it's belt and one gear mesh. Belt can stretch, and break

Ok, I'm not helping their cause much, but thats what I've found. Would I buy another one new. DAMN SURE. for R 650, it's a Hopper, and can feed up to 30 BPS, for that money, it's awesome.
But there are R 250-00 Motorized hoppers out there as well, which I haven't tried yet.
I haven't had one run out of batteries, but then I've only used mine about 6 times.